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The 101 Gaming Laptop Guide to Safely Increasing Performance and Reducing Temperatures - including MSI Afterburner, ThrottleStop tutorials for beginners, and more

[20/04/2020 - Updated with additional safety advice, clearer instructions, undervolting on 9xx/9xxM cards and AMD cards, and guide to starting ThrottleStop with Windows which is necessary to apply the CPU undervolt]
I've made quite a few posts to Quora on how people can unlock more performance, and I thought I would write a 101 guide on the steps every Gaming Laptop owner should be taking with their laptop - for increased gaming performance, quieter fans, lower temperatures and ultimately a longer lasting laptop. Pretty much all of these actually apply to desktops as well, but laptops stand to gain the most from them, as they are usually closer to the limit with temperatures.
So quite simply, the first steps are to check the basics:
Have you got RAM installed in both slots?
It's still not guaranteed in 2020 that this will be the case, and you may be operating in single channel mode, throwing away something like 15-25% performance. If this is the case, buy an extra RAM stick to fit in your laptop.
You do not need matching size sticks for dual channel to work, nor the same brand. But you should match the speed, because though most new laptops work with a variety of DDR4 speeds, some laptops can be more picky, and many older DDR3 ones only take one specific speed of RAM at all.
But say you have one Samsung 8GB 2400MHz stick, then you can buy a 4GB Micron 2400MHz stick, put it in the second slot, and have 8GB of your 12GB RAM running perfectly well in dual channel mode. The myth that you need same size RAM sticks for dual channel stems from PCs back in the 2000s when you did need matching sticks; this has long since changed with improvements to how the CPU handles RAM. I recommend you buy second hand on ebay or other similar sites; second hand RAM will work just as well as new RAM, and be significantly cheaper.
This step may go well with the later step of repasting the CPU and GPU; see further down.
Next; do you have an SSD as your main boot drive?
Laptops, even ones with gaming graphics cards, still sometimes ship with regular hard drives. This will be especially true if you pick up an older laptop with a graphics card. You will find that your entire PC will be massively faster if you have your main drive as an SSD. If you are on a tight budget, getting a 128GB SSD to put your main files on, then getting a $5 caddy for the drive currently in your system to put your games and other files on is a sensible option (and yes, you can run your huge Steam games off an external USB hard drive). If you have the budget, 500GB SSDs are a great compromise between affordability and storage space. Most SSDs have an endurance way above what most people will even use in the next 10 years, so buying used is definitely a reasonable option - but seek advice from others if you're inexperienced, and ask to see the SMART stats before buying to make sure it hasn't had round the clock use. Look for the "Total Writes" stat, and comparing to the endurance of the drive in the specs - I would say anything less than 30% is absolutely fine. The Samsung 850 EVO is the absolute king of battery life, if that is something important to you.

Okay, so with those out of the way - you've got a dual channel gaming Laptop with an SSD as a boot drive, and you want to do everything you can to make it as good as it can be. What should you be doing?
Well, the number one step here is undervolting and overclocking your graphics card. I have seen a number of guides out there, but no-one seems to really push the main points home:
MSI Afterburner has a built-in Overclocking Scanner that takes most of the hard work out of this, and -
There is ZERO risk of damaging your laptop in the process.
Many people seem to believe that somehow it is bad to do this on a laptop - however what they don't consider is that the MSI Afterburner OC scanner also automatically undervolts, as well as overclocks. This actually leads to a net reduction in temperatures. I went from low 60s to high 50s on my GTX 1650 laptop the other day using this tool.
The automatic OC Scanner is only for GTX 10xx series and newer cards, so it won't work on GTX 9xx/9xxM etc. You can still do undervolting, it will just be a longer process - which I will detail further down. AMD cards have their own option in AMD Adrenaline - see here.
To begin, download and install C++2015 from Microsoft website. The OC scanner requires this to be on your system. Then download and install MSI Afterburner. Once open, click once on the graph area at the bottom and press Ctrl+F. It should bring up the voltage/frequency graph.
For everyone with 10xx/MX1xx series cards or later - Click the button that says ‘OC Scanner’ in the corner. It will then scan for the lowest voltage possible for the maximum frequency and automatically create an overclock profile once it is done.
How simple was that? You now have a stable GPU overclock and undervolt on your PC. Save in profile one and hit the tick box to apply.

Okay... so it seems that if you have a 8xxM or older card, the only software that will allow you to apply any kind of undervolt is a tool called NVIDIA Inspector. This will also allow you to overclock as well. From feedback it seems you can only apply a very small 12.5mV undervolt, but that is better than nothing. and will help to reach higher overclock speeds, or perhaps take a degree or two off the maximum temp Here is a screenshot of it in action: https://i.imgur.com/HWXG3ee.png
If you're running a GTX 9xx/9xxM card which will work with MSI Afterburner, and doesn't support the OC Scanner, but does still support undervolting?
The funny thing is, when you raise the core clock slider, it will automatically be using the same voltage as before, only at a higher frequency.
So technically, just sliding the core clock up will provide an undervolt at lower frequencies. But it may crash at higher ones if it cannot support it.
I'm going to try and keep this simple. There are two situations: if you have a fairly thin laptop with moderate cooling abilities and possibly a fairly low temperature limit - or a beefly gaming laptop with good cooling and higher thermal limit.
If you have a "proper" gaming laptop with decent heatsinks and cooling fans, then you can just go back to the sliders and raise the maximum core frequency slider, and keep benchmarking to make sure it is stable. It will then be undervolting at low frequencies and then using the same maximum voltage for higher overclocked frequencies. I recommend starting between +120 and +150, and see how you get on.
If your cooling is only moderate, have a look at this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwCzCgaJ3WY&t=755s
Pause and examine the graph. If you see, he has raised the core clock at the beginning, which will mean it will operate those frequencies at a lower voltage (an undervolt). And he has lowered the maximum frequency by flattening the end of the curve below where it originally maxed out (an underclock). So he has an undervolt at the beginning, and an underclock towards the end.
What I would do is keep the same shape curve as the guy in the video, but just make the maximum height exactly the same as it was before. So the flat part of the line should begin at the same maximum height as the original one did - just further left than before.
It should look something like this (mine has a slightly higher line than before, which represents a 50MHz maximum clock boost): https://imgur.com/a/Tk2YFYQ
So this will keep the same (or in my case +50Mhz) maximum core clock speed, and undervolt all the way up to that. This will ultimately mean that you will have lower temps in your thin gaming laptop, and be able reach higher maximum speeds without thermal throttling. Hopefully you can get your head around that mouthful!

Okay. So be sure you've saved your profile to one of the five slots available before moving on. Remember to hit the tick box to apply the changes you've made thus far.
The next thing is to overclock the memory.
I managed 850MHz on my laptop GPU yesterday. Your results may vary, it will depend on the type of RAM in your card which is a complete lottery. It will likely be somewhere between 800 and 1200MHz at a guess.
You will need to run a benchmark to test the memory overclock - I recommend a combination of Unigine Heaven and 3DMark Firestrike. At a certain point you will get graphical glitches creeping in. There is ZERO risk of damaging anything - the worst that can happen is your PC will eventually restart if it is too high for the system to handle.
When this is done, and you are satisfied you have a stable memory overclock, save again to Profile 1 and click the tick box to apply the settings.
Congrats - you should have about 10–15% extra performance for absolutely nothing, as well as lower temperatures from the undervolting that the OC scanner did in the first step.

Ok... so what's next? Undervolt your CPU using ThrottleStop, which will again lower temps and likely improve performance - and again, no risk at all to your laptop by doing this. The worst that happens if you undervolt too much is your laptop restarts and goes back to the default settings. At that point you just reduce the undervolt until you find a stable point.
I have to point out that some laptop manufacturers are now locking users out of undervolting features. People are working against it by creating mods to get around the blocks put in place, but if in doubt you can likely search "undervolting your laptop model here" and find relevant information. Most laptops will support this.
There are many guides out there, and doesn’t take long to do. I will cover the basics:
Download C++ 2013 from Microsoft and install, then download Throttlestop from Techpowerup website. Extract and place the whole folder into a place you're happy for it to stay, then run it. Accept the disclaimers.
Click the FIVR button along the bottom. You now are looking at the undervolting sliders. Select CPU Core near the middle-top, click "unlock adjustable voltage" button below, and then move the slider backwards to create your undervolt. If you have a dual core CPU, this will likely be between 70-75mv; for quad cores this will be anything between 100-140mv. Mine tops out at about -130mV stable on both mains and battery power (will get into this further down). Then click "CPU cache" and match whatever undervolt you've put for your CPU core. In the bottom right corner, select "Save voltages immediately", and then click OK. That's all there is to it.
You will want to test your undervolt to make sure it is stable. Click the TS Bench button in the main window, and select the 1024 size test. Start it, and it will stress test your CPU to make sure your undervolt is stable.
If it crashes, your PC will Blue Screen and simply restart with default voltages. So simply open up ThrottleStop again, and make the undervolt less. If it hasn't crashed, try increasing the undervolt. I recommend going in 5mV steps, but there's no real wrong way to do it - it's trial and error.
As I alluded to earlier, on battery power the stable undervolt will be noticeably lower than on mains power. I had to decrease mine from -145mV to about -130mV to get it stable on battery power. You can create separate profiles for battery and mains if you wish to do so; it's fairly obvious how to do that, so I'll leave that to you; for simplicity I recommend just the one profile.
I also add a 30mv to my Intel Graphics (just the one "Intel GPU" button next to CPU core) for good measure; there's no harm in doing this for a bit of extra power savings.
Finally, you will need to either open ThrottleStop each time you start Windows - use the following guide to have it launch using Windows Task Scheduler: https://www.repairwin.com/how-to-start-throttlestop-at-windows-startup/
And there you have it. If you happen to have a Intel Quad core U CPU, like the 8250u, this will have the added bonus of increasing the clock speed that it can hit with its' low power cap. I have a Lenovo S540, and the 21W cap turned from 2.7GHz into 3.2GHz with the -130mV undervolt applied. That's a 0.5GHz boost in CPU power under load for absolutely nothing. With other H or HQ CPUs, this will translate into maybe 5W or so lower power consumption and anything from 5 to 10 degrees lower temperatures. This will make your laptop cooler, likely make the fans quieter and ultimately make your laptop last longer. Which is why every laptop should be undervolted. No excuses! And you do not need to run ThrottleStop every time Windows starts; it will apply the undervolt in the configuration files every time Windows starts regardless of whether ThrottleStop is actually open.

And now we get to the nitty-gritty: repasting the CPU and GPU with good quality thermal paste.
[EDIT] Okay, so you should know that it isn't completely risk-free, and you should research this beforehand just to make sure you don't do something stupid. But I stand by the fact that if you disconnect the battery and are gentle and careful, the chance of you damaging your laptop is negligible. Just please be aware that it is your responsibility to make sure you don't do something like allow a screwdriver to slip from your hand and damage your board, or something like that.
Firstly, if you have just bought your laptop and the undervolt of the CPU and GPU are giving you good temperatures, you can skip this if you really don't want to. However, there's no reason to be afraid
First thing, go ahead and touch a metal surface in your home, like the tap or radiator. This will ground any excess electrical energy on you person. Now go ahead and unscrew the base of your laptop on a flat and stable surface. As I said, the first thing you should do is detach the battery once you've opened up your laptop.
Now unscrew the heatsink and remove any cables that are in the way, such as Wifi antennae or fan connectors. Pull the heatsink off the board. Now, to clean off the original thermal paste on your board and on your metal heatsink. There are many guides out there as to how to remove thermal paste. While isopropyl alcohol is certainly a foolproof choice, I can tell you that I've cleaned tens of laptop CPUs with nothing but tissue on the chips on the board, and a bit of spit and tissue on the copper heatsink, and all of them work fine. Just be sure not to get moisture on the board when you reapply the heatsink, and you will be fine. If you have used any moisture to clean the heatsink, just give it a good polish until it's all gone. Just use common sense - and if in doubt, you can always leave your heatsink for 10 minutes to let any moisture evaporate.
If this is your first time, go ahead and read all the material you can, and take every precaution. Mainly I'm just trying to get across that I've done it many times without using cleaning products, and it's not as scary as some people make it out to be - as long as you treat it gently when working with the screwdriver, and be delicate cleaning around the chip on the motherboard, where there are little capacitors sticking out.
[EDIT] So originally I recommended Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut as the best thermal paste around. However, there seems to be some debate as to it drying up quite fast if temperatures go over 80 degrees. Others have said that it reduces their temps by 10 degrees over any other one available.
If you want the best, and are prepared to potentially have to repaste in say 6 months, get Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. Bear in mind some people have said it's lasted them years. If you definitely want to avoid opening up for several years and don't mind having "very good" rather than "the best" then I recommend Arctic MX-4 - reliable, affordable, good quality and no reports of it drying up as far as I know. This is absolutely a "your results may vary" situation, depending on your heatsink, the CPU and GPU and the laptop chassis... it's very common for people to try out new pastes to see what works best with their laptop. If that's you, give Kryonaut a try. If not, go with the MX-4. There are plenty of other good choices out there, but those two I have experience with and won't hesitate to recommend.
Only use enough to thinly cover the whole heatsink. You will find a ton of pictures online for reference as to what "thinly cover" means. Once you screw the heatsink back on, it will spread around evenly. Spread it around with the tip of the tube when you're squeezing it out, I find this the easiest way. Kryonaut comes with a little plastic spreader to use, but I find that just wastes a bit of thermal paste and adds an unnecessary step.
Screw back in the heatsink - for even amount of pressure, do each screw 50% before tightening them all the way, so that the pressure from one side doesn't squeeze all the thermal paste below onto the other. But again, it is pretty difficult to ahem, screw this up, so don't worry too much.
Put your laptop back together, and you should be running anything from 5 to 10 degrees lower temperatures, depending on just how bad the stock CPU paste is. Some Laptop manufacturers are now making the effort to at least not use garbo tier paste, so your mileage may vary - but you will certainly see a drop of some sort.

And there you have it!! The three main bases of laptop performance tweaking covered! So, finally:
Disable as much garbage in Windows 10 running in the background as possible. Windows 10 likes to collect data. Lots of it. Which causes a CPU spike and will decrease your performance. Do you really need personalized ads?
In fact, do you need ads at all? If you're not using AdBlocker already, you are basically condemning your PC to performance-sucking advert hell. I use Opera browser, combined with the extension Adblock Plus to block ads. Some sites won't allow you to open them without disabling your adblock; you can just click the Icon in the top right corner to add an exception for that individual site, and it will remember that in future. Worth mentioning is the Youtube Enhancer extension, which gives the option of a grey theme for Youtube, which is MUCH easier on the eyes (as well as lots of other customizable features).
Close as many apps as possible if you're gaming. The more things you have running in the background, the more they will take performance from your game. Go through your applications every now and then, and uninstall everything you no longer need.
Clean your drives of clutter (using the Disk Cleanup tool in Windows AND CCleaner, a free tool available for download). This removes many Gigabytes of Windows Update clutter, for instance. If you don't have much free space left on your boot drive, this can slow down performance dramatically. Get a cheap 2.5 inch USB drive, 320GB, 500GB, 1TB, 2TB, however much you need and/or can afford, and copy as much as you can onto it to free up space.
And if you only have one copy of all your important files - ARE YOU CRAZY?? BACK UP YOUR DATA! You will be thankful sooner or later, believe me...
Make sure to turn the power profile in corner to high performance (click the power icon to bring up the slider). Some laptops will throttle down the CPU on lower levels.
And don't put your laptops on pillows/duvets or other similar surfaces. You will block air intake vents and temperatures will soar - and you will get a build-up of fluff/dust pretty soon in your fan and heatsink. If this is you, then take a moment to clean your fan and heatsink when you repaste your CPU.
Lastly, if you have a integrated Vega graphics, you should use Ryzen Master Controller to unlock the power limits and see anything up to 50% increase in gaming performance, depending on the temperature limit and other factors. Many people have covered this extensively, and it is very simple to do.
That is it! The only thing to say is if temperatures are a particular problem, then a cooling pad can make a difference - but if you have followed all the steps in this guide, then you should have no need to. All that remains for me to say is let me know if there's anything you feel I've left out, comments and suggestions more than welcome. Happy Gaming :)
submitted by loz333 to pcgaming

Adding cover artwork to CDI disc images for GDEMU/GDMENU

A question came up from u/pvcHook in a recent post about adding artwork to GDI images: can the same be done for games in a CDI format? The answer is yes, and the general process is the same as it is for the GDI games. I've already added all of the appropriate artwork to all of the indie shmup games and all that; can I share those here, or is that a no-no? Because if that's all you're here for it, that would be a lot easier than putting yourself through this process. But it's something to learn, so read on.
First, if you want to do this, you're going to need the proper tools. Someone put together a CDI toolkit (password: DCSTUFF) of sorts on another forum; this is basically the same thing with a few additions and tweaks I've made; before you begin install ISO Buster from the 'isobuster' folder. You will also need the PVR Viewer utility to create the artwork files for the discs. The images you generate will need to be mounted to a virtual drive, so Daemon Tools or some other drive emulation software will also be required. And finally you'll need a copy of DiscJuggler to write your images into a format useable by an emulator or your GDEMU.
Here are the general extraction steps, I'll go into a bit more detail after the list:
  1. Copy your CDI image to the 'cdirip' folder in the toolkit and run the 'CDIrip pause.bat' file. Choose an output directory (preferably the 'isofix' folder) and let it rip. You will need to note the LBA info of the tracks being extracted (which is why I made this pause batch file). If only two tracks are extracted, then look closely at the sizes of the sectors that were extracted. If the first track is the larger of the two, then you will not need to use isofix to extract the contents. If the second track is the larger of the two, make note of its LBA value to use with isofix to extract its contents.
  2. Make sure you have installed ISO Buster, you will need it beyond this point.
  3. Go to the 'isofix' folder and you will see the contents of the disc. There will be image files named with the 'TData#.iso' convention and those are what we need to use. The steps diverge a bit from this point depending upon the format of the disc you just extracted; read carefully and follow the instructions for your situation.
  4. If the first track extracted in step one was the larger of the two tracks, open it in ISO Buster and go to step #7.
  5. If the second track extracted in step one was the larger of the two tracks, open a command prompt in 'isofix' (shift+right click) and type "isofix.exe TData#.iso" and give the utility the LBA you noted in step 1 when prompted for it. This will dump a new iso file into the folder called 'fixed.iso'. Open 'fixed.iso' in ISO Buster and go to step #7.
  6. If CDIrip extracted a bunch of wave files and a 'TData#.iso' file, the disc you extracted uses CDDA. Open a command prompt in 'isofix' (shift+right click) and type "isofix.exe TData#.iso" and give the utility the LBA you noted in step 1 when prompted for it. This will dump a new iso file into the folder called 'fixed.iso'. Open 'fixed.iso' in ISO Buster and go to step #7.
  7. In the left pane of ISO Buster you'll see the file structure of the iso file you opened; expand the tree until you see a red 'iso' icon and click on it. This should open up the files and folders within it in the right pane. Highlight all of these files, right click and choose 'Extract Objects'; choose the 'discroot' folder in the CDI toolkit.
Your CDI image is now extracted. Please note that all of the indie releases from NGDEV.TEAM, Hucast.Net, and Duranik use the CDDA format. You'll see the difference when it's time to rebuild the disc image. Also, if you're using PowerShell and not command prompt, the prompts to run the command line utilities are a bit different; you would need to type out '.\isofix' (minus quotes) to execute isofix, for example.
There are other guides out there concerned with converting cover art files into the PVR format that the Dreamcast and GDEMU/GDMenu use, so I won't go into great detail about that here. I will note, however, that I generally load games up in Redream at least once so it fetches the cover art for the games. They are very good quality sources, and they're 512x512 so won't lose any quality when you reduce them to 256x256 for the GDMenu.
I will say, however, that a lot of the process in the guide I linked to is optional; you can simply open the source file in PVR Viewer and save it as a .pvr file and it will be fine. But feel free to get as detailed as you like with it.
Once you have your cover art to your liking, make sure it's been placed in the 'discroot' folder and you can begin the image rebuilding process.
We'll start with an image that doesn't use CDDA:
  1. Check the 'discroot' folder for two files: 1ST_READ.BIN and IP.BIN. Select them, then copy and paste them into the 'binhack32' folder in the toolkit. Run the binhack32.exe application in the 'binhack32' folder (you may have to tweak your antivirus settings to do this).
  2. Binhack32 will prompt you to "enter name of binary": this is 1ST_READ.BIN, type it correctly and remember it is case sensitive. Once you enter the binary, you will be prompted to "enter name of bootsector": this is IP.BIN, again type correctly and remember case.
  3. The next prompt will ask you to update the LBA value of the binaries. Enter zero ( 0 ) for this value, since we are removing the preceding audio session track and telling the binaries to start from the beginning of the disc. Once the utility is done, select the two bin files, then cut and paste them back into the 'discroot' folder; overwrite when prompted.
  4. Open the 'bootdreams' folder and start up the BootDreams.exe executable. Before doing anything click on the "Extras" entry in the menu bar, and hover over "Dummy file"; some options will pop out. If you are burning off the discs for any reason, be sure to use one of the options, 650MB or 700MB. If you aren't burning them, still consider using the dummy data. It will compress down to nothing if you're saving these disc images for archival reasons.
  5. Click on the far left icon on the top of BootDreams, the green DiscJuggler icon. Open or drag'n'drop the 'discroot' folder into the "selfboot folder" field, and add whatever label you want for the disc (limited to 8 characters, otherwise you'll get an error). Change disc format to 'data/data', then click on the process button.
  6. If you get a prompt asking to scramble the binary, say no. Retail games that run off of Katana or Windows CE binaries don't need to be scrambled; if this is a true homebrew application or game, then it might need to be scrambled.
  7. Choose an output location for the CDI image, and let the utilities go to work. If everything was set up properly you'll get a new disc image with cover art. I always boot the CDI up in RetroArch or another emulator to make sure it's valid and runs as expected so you don't waste time transferring a bad dump to your GDEMU (or burning a bad disc).
If your game uses CDDA, the process involves a few more steps, but it's nothing terribly complicated:
  1. Check the 'discroot' folder for the IP.BIN file. If it's there, everything is good, continue on to the next step. If it's not there, look in the 'isofix' directory: there should be a file called "bootsector.bin" in that folder. Copy that file and paste it into the 'discroot' folder, then rename it IP.BIN (all caps, even the file extension). Now you're good, go on to the next step.
  2. Remember all those files dumped into the 'isofix' directory? Go look at them now. Copy/cut and paste all of those wave files from 'isofix' into the 'bootdreams/cdda' folder.
  3. Start up the bootdreams.exe executable from the 'bootdreams' folder.
  4. Select the middle icon at the top of the BootDreams window, the big red 'A' for Alcohol 120% image. Once you've selected this, click on 'Extras' up in the menu bar and make sure the 'Add CDDA tracks' option is selected (has a check mark next to it).
  5. Open/drag'n'drop the finished 'discroot' folder into the selfboot folder field; put whatever name you'd like for the disc in the CD label field. Click on the process button.
  6. If you get a prompt asking to scramble the binary, say no. Retail games that run off of Katana or Windows CE binaries don't need to be scrambled; if this is a true homebrew application or game, then it might need to be scrambled.
  7. A window showing you the audio files in the 'cdda' folder will pop up. Highlight all of them in the left pane and click the right-pointing arrow in the middle of the two fields to add them to the project. Make sure they are in order! Then click on OK. The audio files are converted to the appropriate raw format and the process continues. Choose an output location for the MDS/MDF files.
  8. When the files are finished, find them and mount them into a virtual drive (with Daemon Tools or whatever utility you prefer). Open up DiscJuggler and we'll make a CDI image.
  9. Start a new project in DiscJuggler (File > New, then choose 'Create disc images' from the menu). Choose your virtual drive with mounted image in the source field, and set your file output in the destination field. Click the Advanced tab above, and make sure 'Overburn disc' is selected. Click Start to begin converting into a CDI image.
  10. When DiscJuggler is done, close it down, unmount and delete the MDS/MDF files created by BootDreams, and test your CDI image with RetroArch or another emulator before transferring it to your GDEMU.
If you have followed these steps and the disc image will absolutely not boot, then it's possible that a certain disc layout is required and must be used. I have only run into this a few times, but in this situation you simply need to use the 'audio/data' option for the CDI image in Bootdreams to put the image back together. Please note: if you are going to try to build the image with the 'audio/data' option, then make sure you replace the IP.BIN file in the 'discroot' folder with the original, unmodified bootsector.bin file in the 'isofix' folder. The leading audio track is a set size, and the IP.BIN will be expecting this; remember, the IP.BIN modified by binhack32 changes the LBA value of the file and it won't work properly with the audio/data method.
These methods have worked for me each and every time I've wanted to add artwork to a CDI image, and it should work for you as well. This will also keep the original IP.BIN files from the discs, so it should keep anything that references this information intact (like the cover art function in Redream). If it doesn't, then the rebuilt images with artwork can be used on your GDEMU and you can keep the original disc images to use in Redream or wherever.
Let me know if anything is unclear and I can clean the guide up a bit. Or if I can just share the link to my Drive with the images done and uploaded!
submitted by king_of_dirt to dreamcast

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